Subscribe to ELDR magazine
	Give a Gift >>

RSS

|

AAA |

Dutch Harbor, Alaska: an Ageless Traveler Destination

Visit this little-known town for a lesson in history you will never forget.

by Adriane Berg

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

"Remember Peal Harbor” is a cry that rallied a nation. But do you know about Dutch Harbor? Located on the Aleutian Island of Unalaska, it is the second deadliest WWII theatre, ripe with stories of heroism, tragedy, and victory.

You may have heard of Dutch Harbor, a three-hour plane trip from Anchorage, for the crabbing adventures portrayed on the Discovery Channel reality show, The Deadliest Catch. But in 1941, the U.S. Army built a ring of forts and artillery fire control stations, together with concrete observation posts and bunkers to protect and defend the Aleutian Islands. In all, 100 buildings were involved in Unalaska alone.

Fashiell Hammett, renowned author of The Maltese Falcon, was the editor of the Army paper in the Aleutians. He wrote: “Modern armies had never fought on any field that was like the Aleutians. We would have to learn as we went along, how to live and fight and win in this new land, the least-known part of our America.”

Before you even begin the 13-site trek on the WWII trail, try to imagine what life was like in the '40s. This is the most western part of the U.S. To get just an inkling of the frozen landscape in which our men fought—so different from the green, wild orchids and other wildflowers you will see among the intermittent fog today—go to the visitors' center for bone-chilling black-and-white photos of the troops in winter. You will wonder why we sacrificed our men in the first place.

You can walk or drive through the lush Aleutian tundra in spring and summer to investigate the remains of the buildings. Start with a solid two hours devoted to the WWII museum near the airport in Dutch Harbor. Artifacts are curated with stirring commentary and quotes set forth on simple signs near each exhibit. It's a profound and quiet testimony to the turmoil that was all too real during the war. An original dog tag cutting machine permits you to make and buy your own, as a contribution to the survival of the museum, and a tribute to the men who fought.

Then the story will unfold. The Japanese invaded the island of Kiska in the Aleutians in 1942. The only inhabitants were the crew of the U.S. Archeological Detail. The men were captured almost immediately, with Senior Petty Officer William House eating earthworms and plants for 50 days. Weighing 90 pounds, he finally surrendered to the Japanese. The next year, the 11th Army Air Force and Navy Patrol dropped 7 million pounds of bombs and choked the Japanese supply line, causing the Japanese to leave Kiska under cover of night. The island was virtually abandoned, but riddled with Japanese-installed booby traps. Unaware of the Japanese evacuation, U.S. forces landed with 35,000 men, only to lose many via booby traps and friendly fire as they searched the deserted island.

Things were different on the island of Attu, further west on the Aleutian chain. Japanese soldiers invaded that island in June of 1942, taking all the Aleut native people captive, and claiming the island for the Japanese Empire. The Japanese soldiers deployed to Attu were Samurai, imbued with the Bushido Code: “Commit suicide if captured.” A two-week battle raged in May of 1943. U.S. soldiers were deployed to take back the entire island chain, which had been part of our nation since the Seward purchase of Alaska from the Russians in 1867. You will remember that from high school history as Seward's Folly.

We lost 3,900 men at Attu, as many to cold and disease as to the enemy. Our poorly outfitted fighting men, wearing WWI helmets and inferior clothing, often took the better uniforms from the Japanese dead. They starved, ate thistle or tried to kill fish with hand grenades thrown into the sea.

After many assaults, Japanese leader Colonel Yamasaki was killed in an attack wave up Engineer Hill. Yet the Japanese did not surrender. As Samurais, they killed themselves, and their doctors killed the wounded. On May 28, 1943, Dr. Paul Nebu Tatsuguchi wrote:

“The last assault is to be carried out. All the patients in the hospital are to commit suicide. Only 33 years of living and I am to die here...At 1800 hours I took care of all the patients with grenades. Good-bye, Taeki, my beloved wife, who loved me to the last."

U.S. soldiers buried 2,351 Japanese in mass graves. Just this year, Japan declared a mission to recover the remains and bury them on Japanese soil.

To Plan Your Ageless Traveler Trip

Many cruise ships will allow you to visit Dutch Harbor for six hours. Before you go, write for the Aleutian World War II National Historic Area Driving Guide, at 240 West 5th Avenue, Anchorage, AK 99501. If you wish to arrange a trip and stay at the Grand Aleutian Hotel, be sure to eat at some of the interesting restaurants, such as The 3 Amigos, an unprepossessing Mexican restaurant with terrific halibut cevice. Walk the tundra, reminiscent of the spiritual walks of Irish coast or the naturalized walks of Tasmania. Arrange individual and family travel through Tammy Peterson of the Dutch Harbor/Unalaska CVB, at (907) 581-2612, P.O. Box 545, Unalaska, AK, 99685. Tammy is the Fish Queen of Unalaska and will be happy to arrange for charter boats as well. Cars are available at the Dutch Harbor airport, as are taxi services.

 

 

Adriane Berg is a consultant to financial companies, an international speaker on longevity and the baby boomer, and the author of How Not To Go Broke At 102: Achieving Everlasting Wealth. Visit her website and join the Longevity Club, dedicated to fun, friendship and finances in the fabulous decades ahead.

 

See more of Carole Herdegen's work atTravelSite.com.

See More Travel Articles

Like what you see? Subscribe to ELDR Magazine »